Beyond Vitamin C: The Brightening Ingredients You Need to Know
When it comes to fading dark spots and pigmentation, Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is the gold standard. For years, it has been the go-to antioxidant for achieving a bright, even skin tone—but you may want other options.
For one, vitamin C (especially in high concentrations) can cause irritation for people with reactive or sensitive skin. It’s also a tricky ingredient to keep long-term, as it’s somewhat unstable in its pure form and loses effectiveness when exposed to light, air, or heat.
In the last few years, a new generation of brightening ingredients has emerged, giving you lots of choices when looking for a product that will get your skin glowing. Whether you’re dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, sun spots, or melasma, understanding these ingredients can help you find a product that is effective for you.
Let’s take a look at some of the emerging key players; how they work, why they’re different, and how they compare to Vitamin C.
Need a refresher on Vitamin C? Check out our full guide: Everything You Need to Know About Vitamin C.
Tranexamic Acid (TXA): The Targeted Brightener
Tranexamic acid is a synthetic amino acid derivative that was traditionally used to reduce bleeding. Like many other brighteners, it works by disrupting the way skin cells produce melanin, reducing its transfer to the skin’s surface where it could cause pigmentation.
What sets it apart:
- Works particularly well against melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation
- Can be used with vitamin C or niacinamide
- Gentle enough for most skin types
Best for: Persistent pigmentation, melasma, uneven skin tone.
Our suggestion: HaruHaru Wonder Centella 4% TXA Dark Spot Go Away Serum. This serum uses a trinity of brighteners, including tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C. Use it to fade dark spots and post-acne scars.
Arbutin: The Gentle Inhibitor
Arbutin is a natural ingredient that comes from bearberry plants. You might see it on ingredient lists as alpha-arbutin, or beta-arbutin. Arbutin slowly releases stabilized hydroquinone, which in turn inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production.
What sets it apart:
- Gentler than hydroquinone
- Can be combined with other actives like vitamin C
- Is a little less intense than other brighteners, making it a good choice for sensitive skin or beginners
Best for: Mild to moderate hyperpigmentation, sensitive skin, gentle brightening
Our suggestion: VT Cosmetics Red Booster Reedle Shot 100. Arbutin gently evens skin tone, while soothing panthenol and ceramides help skin retain its elasticity. Micro-spicule technology ensures the delivery of the product into deeper skin layers. An amazing boost for dull or mature skin.
Kojic Acid: The Melanin Blocker
Kojic acid is a byproduct of fermenting rice or soybeans, used in sake and soy sauce production. Some mushrooms are natural sources of kojic acid. Like arbutin, it inhibits tyrosinase, limiting melanin production, even reducing existing pigmentation.
What sets it apart:
- Works to fade dark spots and sun damage
- Can be used with arbutin to improve results
- Is effective, but can irritate sensitive skin
Best for: Sun spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots caused by acne)
Our suggestion: Nineless B-Boost 1% Kojic Acid Serum. This product is a dream for those looking for firmer, glowing skin. Kojic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid target dark spots while peptides support the skin barrier.
Glutathione: The Antioxidant Defender
You might not have heard of this ingredient, but it has the potential to become a household name. That’s because this naturally occurring antioxidant defends skin against environmental damage, including pigmentation and other signs of aging. It’s made up of amino acids that influence melanin production, resulting in overall skin brightening.
What sets it apart:
- Like vitamin C, it has overall skin health benefits
- Often combined with other antioxidants
Best for: Overall brightening, dull skin, fighting environmental damage
Our suggestion: Numbuzin No.5+ Glutathione Vitamin Concentrated Serum. Need something that targets hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and acne scars? This serum does it all with a combination of glutathione, tranexamic acid, and alpha-arbutin.
Azelaic Acid: The Multi-Tasker
Azelaic acid has commonly been used as a gentle exfoliator that also reduces melanin production. It’s naturally derived from grains like barley and wheat, and has other skin-benefiting properties that make it a great multi-tasking skincare ingredient.
What sets it apart:
- Targets pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase
- Helps with acne and rosacea
- Gentle exfoliant that suits most skin types
Best for: Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, redness, sensitive skin
Our suggestion: Anua Azeliac Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum. This serum is for those who want brightening action without irritation. Azelaic acid and hyaluronic acid evens the complexion while calming redness in this gentle formula.
Mandelic Acid: The Exfoliating Brightener
Mandelic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that comes from bitter almonds. While it does have some melanin-reducing properties, its real power is in exfoliating dead skin cells and increasing cell turnover, which helps fade surface pigmentation.
What sets it apart:
- Larger molecular size, meaning it is less likely to irritate
- Great for skin that is prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation
- When used before other brightening ingredients, can enhance absorption
Best for: Surface-level pigmentation, dull skin, beginners to chemical exfoliants
Our suggestion: By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid Dark Spot Correcting Serum. Mandelic acid gently exfoliates dull skin to restore fresh, even skin, while glutathione and vitamin C derivatives target dark spots in this correcting serum.
Vitamin C will always remain a staple in our skincare routines, but it’s far from the only brightening ingredient option. Depending on what you’re looking for (overall or targeted brightening) and your skin type (sensitive, acne-prone), there’s something that will work for you.
To learn more about hyperpigmentation and how to treat it, read our Hyperpigmentation 101 guide!